I set my alarm for 7am but find it really hard to get out of bed. It's warm in there and cold and rainy, again, outside. But Il Frantoio breakfasts are not to be missed, so I manage to pull myself together in time to enjoy a warm cup of tea, some cereal, fruit and toast with homemade jam. All served by a toasty fireplace.
I have agreed to meet Franco and Francesco again this afternoon so that we can go to a showroom and pick out all of my lighting fixtures. And they will also take me to see the doors I have chosen in person. But I have until 4pm and it's 10:30AM. And it's pouring rain.
I decide to get in my car and just randomly explore the area. No GPS or Google maps. I'm just going to drive.
This area of Puglia is pretty well marked, if you know where you want to go. I ended up passing through the historic towns of Ostuni, Ceglie Massapica, Cisternino and Locorotondo. Even in the rain the countryside is simply beautiful. And when the rain stopped and the sun came out for a brief spell I stopped in beautiful Alberobello for lunch. Alberobello is the town with the largest collection of Trulli* in all of Puglia and has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996. It has an other-wordly quality to it. I parked my car and found the first open restaurant and ducked in. It was just me and two other ladies having lunch. I guess that's what you get on rainy winter days in Puglia. I ordered a glass of red wine and the Pugliese specialty of orecchiette pasta with rape. So, so, so, good! Once again I am reminded how well you can eat in Italy inexpensively and without a lot of searching.
After lunch I pop back by the property to see if I can catch some sunny pictures of the view over the valley. No such luck. What I managed to capture instead was a storm moving in. Just as beautiful and a site not very familiar to us Angelenos in these days of severe drought.
Then back to Il Frantoio. Franco and Francesco arrive to pick me up. I'm on my own with them today as Roberta has come down with something and is running a fever. (Probably as a result of being out in the cold rain helping me the night before.) Franco and Francesco speak very little English. And I speak very little Italian. But I have decided that my communication skills need to be put to the test. No time like the present.
We head first to the door manufacturer. I have never picked out doors before. Again, so many choices. But we decide to stick with the original option. I'm putting lots of faith in my new Italian friends to compensate for my lack of creative vision.
Next, the lighting showroom. We sit with two lovely women who proceed to pull out catalog after catalog of lamps, chandeliers, sconces and outdoor light fixtures. Do i eant Murano glass? Wood? Iron? ceramic? Between my confusion with decor and trying to follow the conversation in Italian I am sure I looked like a deer in headlamps. Round and round we went until we finally settled on:
a) 2 pendant lamps to hang over the table in the kitchen area
b) 6 white ceramapp sconces for the living room and hallway
c) 2 white ceramic sconces for the bathroom
c) 3 ceiling lights for the bedrooms
d) 4 antique black iron lights for the external area of the property
At this point I'm pretty happy with where we landed. I think. I am told the lights will all be ready by the end of January or first week of February. I'm coming back in mid-February. Let there be light.
Next up, choosing some fixtures to replace the antique chandeliers in Craig's villa that the previous owners took with them. Big responsibility he's given to me. I try to describe his style and his, well, frugality. To no avail. First two options we choose? €1000 and €1300 each. I try to explain to Franco that Craig will not pay that much for a light. So we move on to the next tier. €600. €500. I take pictures and tell them I will discuss with Craig. (I call him later that night. He suggests we make a trip to IKEA when we move in March.)
We drive back to the hotel and say our good byes. I will not see them again for 10 weeks. A huge leap of faith leaving my house in their hands. But for some reason, perhaps my naïveté or irrational love of Italians, I am OK with this. We agree that there will be weekly check-ins with photos. And Franco will adjust my construction estimate to reflect all decisions we made this week...including stone designs by ADORABLE man.
Tonight Il Frantoio has a big group coming in for dinner. And they have requested dinner at 9PM. Since there is only one seating and I am the only other guest having dinner....I eat at 9.
When you eat at Il Frantoio, you're not eating in a restaurant, you are eating in the dining of Armando and Rosalba Balestrazzi. She runs the kitchen and he works the room, describing the origins of the property, the food and the wine. He is a very entertaining host. Armando makes sure I feel at home and am supplied with plenty of everything as I am dining alone. I have a seat by the fire and glasses of Susumaniello (a red wine from Puglia) to go with five courses of amazing vegetarian food. I tell him when he asks how I am doing "sono molto felice" (I am very happy.) he tells me it makes his heart feel good when I speak his language. Did I mention how much I love this place?
I know it's not Thanksgiving in Italy. But I had an amazing meal. And paused to think how grateful I am for everything I have. and the great opportunity that has been presented to me this year. And I reflect on my responsibility to take the most from every I've been given.
Buonanotte!
Some view pictures from today....and dinner at Il Frantoio:
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