After what I thought was a very thorough investigation into visa requirements for living in Italy (I'm a big list maker and pretty meticulous about these things), I fill out my application, gather tons of supporting documentation, and schedule my appointment at the Consulate in Century City. I march in through the metal detectors, pretty confident that I have done what is necessary to apply for elective residence.
Aspetta! (translation: Wait!) Not so fast amica!
The woman who meets with me (20 minutes late for the appointment to which I was instructed to arrive 15 minutes early) tells me right away that I should not have paid any attention to the visa requirements on their website, but rather for elective residence visas you need to go to the official state department website. (WHY DON'T THEY MENTION THIS ANYWHERE IN WRITING???) And then she pulls out a whole new list of requirements that I must fulfill to secure this visa. Letters from banks documenting my financial viability and investments that generate substantial income of at least Euro 31,000 annually (not just the financial statements I have already provided), tons of different paperwork related to my house purchase that I do not yet have in my possession, etc. AND she proceeds to tell me that this process can take anywhere from 3 weeks to three months for a decision. I AM FLYING IN 5 WEEKS. ON A PRIVATE JET FOR WHICH WE HAVE JUST PAID A WAD OF CASH. AND ALL OF MY WORDLY POSSESSIONS ARE ON A SHIP BOUND FOR GENOA!!!
I am home now. Taking a Xanax. Pouring a glass of wine. And contemplating my strategy. There has to be a way around this.
In any case, I'm getting on that plane on March 4. At minimum as a tourist. If I have to leave within 90 days and come back here to wrap things up? So be it. Come hell or high water....that's my new mantra.
NB: ALL CAPS in this case really does represent the fact that I am YELLING!
29 January 2016
28 January 2016
OMG! We Need a Car!
At some point along the way it dawned on us (not sure if it was Craig or me for whom this clicked) that we would be arriving to Puglia in March and we wouldn't have a car. I got rid of my leased BMW back in November, and Craig's classic cars would be shipped at the last minute before our departure and not be delivered to Fasano until many weeks after our arrival.
So....how do you buy a car in Italy when you live in Los Angeles? Fortunately for us our new friend Franco is the kindest and most helpful man in all of Italy. Seriously. He contacted a Fiat dealership on our behalf and as of today, after many emails (all in Italian) back and forth with Franco and Sig. Pizzileo at Autosat, I have a deposit on a Fiat 500L Automatica (Grigio Moda) similar to the picture below.
Now what will actually happen when we arrive? Not sure. But I am hoping that getting the car from the dealership in Brindisi goes smoothly. What does worry me a little bit is the last part of Franco's recent email to me assuring me that the car would be mine, however "al vostro arrivo in puglia dovrete chiedere la residenza al comune di Fasano". My interpretation? Upon my arrival to Puglia I will need to apply for residence at the town hall in Fasano. Yikes! So to get my car I have to apply for residence. To get healthcare, I need to apply for residence. For our household goods to clear customs duty free, we have to apply for residence. If they do not approve our application for residence? I do not know. I might have to create a whole different blog to tell that story.
I continue to hope for the best. Franco says he has friends at the Comune. :)
So....how do you buy a car in Italy when you live in Los Angeles? Fortunately for us our new friend Franco is the kindest and most helpful man in all of Italy. Seriously. He contacted a Fiat dealership on our behalf and as of today, after many emails (all in Italian) back and forth with Franco and Sig. Pizzileo at Autosat, I have a deposit on a Fiat 500L Automatica (Grigio Moda) similar to the picture below.
Now what will actually happen when we arrive? Not sure. But I am hoping that getting the car from the dealership in Brindisi goes smoothly. What does worry me a little bit is the last part of Franco's recent email to me assuring me that the car would be mine, however "al vostro arrivo in puglia dovrete chiedere la residenza al comune di Fasano". My interpretation? Upon my arrival to Puglia I will need to apply for residence at the town hall in Fasano. Yikes! So to get my car I have to apply for residence. To get healthcare, I need to apply for residence. For our household goods to clear customs duty free, we have to apply for residence. If they do not approve our application for residence? I do not know. I might have to create a whole different blog to tell that story.
I continue to hope for the best. Franco says he has friends at the Comune. :)
25 January: It Really Looks Like a Bathroom!
Today is the first time I have really done a happy dance when I opened the email with my "Aggiornamento" (update). It looks like I will really have a bathroom. Finalmente! I am so pleased with the choice we made regarding the stone. I will have similar in the kitchen and fireplace. I love it! And the floors....done!!
17 December 2015: My First Renovation Update
When I embarked on this renovation project I was really nervous. I was thousands of miles away and possess only a rudimentary knowledge of Italian. But my gut told me that the people working on the project were good guys. And I continue to hope that my judgement is not clouded by a naïve fondness for this country.
NB:For anyone wishing to take on a project like this, make sure your quotes include IVA. 10% tax on a 100k project makes a bit of a difference to your wallet.
So....when I left Puglia, we agreed that every 3-4 days I would receive updates with pictures as the work progressed. On the 17th of December I got the first set. Plumbing and electrical work is not particularly sexy. But I'm sure there will come a day when I am extremely grateful for the new systems.
NB:For anyone wishing to take on a project like this, make sure your quotes include IVA. 10% tax on a 100k project makes a bit of a difference to your wallet.
So....when I left Puglia, we agreed that every 3-4 days I would receive updates with pictures as the work progressed. On the 17th of December I got the first set. Plumbing and electrical work is not particularly sexy. But I'm sure there will come a day when I am extremely grateful for the new systems.
5 January 2016: Happy New Year! Happy New Floors!
Yay! The pictures I received today show my new floor being installed. Quite frankly I couldn't even remember what I had selected back in November and I was hoping that when I saw it again I would like it. So far, so good! It's starting to look like a place I could actually live.
I think my favorite parts of these updates are the view shots they include with every one....lest we forget one of the major reasons we chose this particular location. On a clear day, so they say, you can see Albania!
I think my favorite parts of these updates are the view shots they include with every one....lest we forget one of the major reasons we chose this particular location. On a clear day, so they say, you can see Albania!
28 December 2015: Fast Forward to the Holiday Update
So my friends in Italy have been very hard at work, despite the fact that it's the holidays. Today's update still not very sexy. But I can see the progress. I am particularly pleased with the work they have done to build a staircase that will connect Craig's villa to my property below. The quality of the building is amazing.
Our thinking is that the whole is greater than the sum of its parts with this one. And if, some day, we should choose to sell, the property will be worth a lot more as a whole unit. But since I plan to live here for at least a few years, I think mostly about how it will make life a lot easier for us and the dogs.
Buone Feste!
Our thinking is that the whole is greater than the sum of its parts with this one. And if, some day, we should choose to sell, the property will be worth a lot more as a whole unit. But since I plan to live here for at least a few years, I think mostly about how it will make life a lot easier for us and the dogs.
Buone Feste!
November 28 - December 1 2015: London
After my packed itinerary in Puglia, it is nice to have a few days visiting my old haunts and catching up with friends. I spend my birthday walking....and drinking tea....and catching a "Vivaldi Four Seasons by Candlelight" concert at St. Martin in the Fields. Lovely!
One thing that strikes me as I share my plans with my friends, both here in the UK and back in the US. Not one of them has cast doubts on my choices. To a number, they have been supportive of my decision. And for that I am truly grateful. I have said it before and I say it again, this dream will not be complete if I can't share it. So let's start booking the visits!
One thing that strikes me as I share my plans with my friends, both here in the UK and back in the US. Not one of them has cast doubts on my choices. To a number, they have been supportive of my decision. And for that I am truly grateful. I have said it before and I say it again, this dream will not be complete if I can't share it. So let's start booking the visits!
27 November: Leaving Puglia....For Now
I am the only person at breakfast this morning. And I feel like the lady of the manor. They put out the full spread just for me. What a treat! Oh...did I mention that there was no hot water for my shower this morning? Probably why I made it in time as once again I was sucked into my comfy bed until the very last minute.
Today I am leaving Puglia. Back to London for a few days to soak up some city life and visit friends. And then back to LA. I have accomplished so much in such a short time this week. And I caught a glimpse of what my life might be like living in Southern Italy. I am cautiously optimistic. Cautious because it is my nature not to be mindlessly enthusiastic, not because of anything I observed. I'm happy about the choices we've made. And most importantly, I think the dogs will like it.
I drive to Bari and return my zippy little Citroen. I board a plane to Milano. From there I fly to London. This chapter of my Italian adventure comes to a close.
A presto, Puglia!
Side notes:
1) Particularly attractive people flying in and out of Bari and Milano-Linate airports.
2) London taxi driver who picked me up from Paddington Station is REALLY not happy about two things. 1) Uber drivers and 2) the Mayor of London closing streets to create bike lanes. I believe his reference to the latter was "if I had a spare bullet it would be for the mayor". Oh dear!
Today I am leaving Puglia. Back to London for a few days to soak up some city life and visit friends. And then back to LA. I have accomplished so much in such a short time this week. And I caught a glimpse of what my life might be like living in Southern Italy. I am cautiously optimistic. Cautious because it is my nature not to be mindlessly enthusiastic, not because of anything I observed. I'm happy about the choices we've made. And most importantly, I think the dogs will like it.
I drive to Bari and return my zippy little Citroen. I board a plane to Milano. From there I fly to London. This chapter of my Italian adventure comes to a close.
A presto, Puglia!
Side notes:
1) Particularly attractive people flying in and out of Bari and Milano-Linate airports.
2) London taxi driver who picked me up from Paddington Station is REALLY not happy about two things. 1) Uber drivers and 2) the Mayor of London closing streets to create bike lanes. I believe his reference to the latter was "if I had a spare bullet it would be for the mayor". Oh dear!
26 November 2015: Thanksgiving Day in Puglia
I set my alarm for 7am but find it really hard to get out of bed. It's warm in there and cold and rainy, again, outside. But Il Frantoio breakfasts are not to be missed, so I manage to pull myself together in time to enjoy a warm cup of tea, some cereal, fruit and toast with homemade jam. All served by a toasty fireplace.
I have agreed to meet Franco and Francesco again this afternoon so that we can go to a showroom and pick out all of my lighting fixtures. And they will also take me to see the doors I have chosen in person. But I have until 4pm and it's 10:30AM. And it's pouring rain.
I decide to get in my car and just randomly explore the area. No GPS or Google maps. I'm just going to drive.
This area of Puglia is pretty well marked, if you know where you want to go. I ended up passing through the historic towns of Ostuni, Ceglie Massapica, Cisternino and Locorotondo. Even in the rain the countryside is simply beautiful. And when the rain stopped and the sun came out for a brief spell I stopped in beautiful Alberobello for lunch. Alberobello is the town with the largest collection of Trulli* in all of Puglia and has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996. It has an other-wordly quality to it. I parked my car and found the first open restaurant and ducked in. It was just me and two other ladies having lunch. I guess that's what you get on rainy winter days in Puglia. I ordered a glass of red wine and the Pugliese specialty of orecchiette pasta with rape. So, so, so, good! Once again I am reminded how well you can eat in Italy inexpensively and without a lot of searching.
After lunch I pop back by the property to see if I can catch some sunny pictures of the view over the valley. No such luck. What I managed to capture instead was a storm moving in. Just as beautiful and a site not very familiar to us Angelenos in these days of severe drought.
Then back to Il Frantoio. Franco and Francesco arrive to pick me up. I'm on my own with them today as Roberta has come down with something and is running a fever. (Probably as a result of being out in the cold rain helping me the night before.) Franco and Francesco speak very little English. And I speak very little Italian. But I have decided that my communication skills need to be put to the test. No time like the present.
We head first to the door manufacturer. I have never picked out doors before. Again, so many choices. But we decide to stick with the original option. I'm putting lots of faith in my new Italian friends to compensate for my lack of creative vision.
Next, the lighting showroom. We sit with two lovely women who proceed to pull out catalog after catalog of lamps, chandeliers, sconces and outdoor light fixtures. Do i eant Murano glass? Wood? Iron? ceramic? Between my confusion with decor and trying to follow the conversation in Italian I am sure I looked like a deer in headlamps. Round and round we went until we finally settled on:
a) 2 pendant lamps to hang over the table in the kitchen area
b) 6 white ceramapp sconces for the living room and hallway
c) 2 white ceramic sconces for the bathroom
c) 3 ceiling lights for the bedrooms
d) 4 antique black iron lights for the external area of the property
At this point I'm pretty happy with where we landed. I think. I am told the lights will all be ready by the end of January or first week of February. I'm coming back in mid-February. Let there be light.
Next up, choosing some fixtures to replace the antique chandeliers in Craig's villa that the previous owners took with them. Big responsibility he's given to me. I try to describe his style and his, well, frugality. To no avail. First two options we choose? €1000 and €1300 each. I try to explain to Franco that Craig will not pay that much for a light. So we move on to the next tier. €600. €500. I take pictures and tell them I will discuss with Craig. (I call him later that night. He suggests we make a trip to IKEA when we move in March.)
We drive back to the hotel and say our good byes. I will not see them again for 10 weeks. A huge leap of faith leaving my house in their hands. But for some reason, perhaps my naïveté or irrational love of Italians, I am OK with this. We agree that there will be weekly check-ins with photos. And Franco will adjust my construction estimate to reflect all decisions we made this week...including stone designs by ADORABLE man.
Tonight Il Frantoio has a big group coming in for dinner. And they have requested dinner at 9PM. Since there is only one seating and I am the only other guest having dinner....I eat at 9.
When you eat at Il Frantoio, you're not eating in a restaurant, you are eating in the dining of Armando and Rosalba Balestrazzi. She runs the kitchen and he works the room, describing the origins of the property, the food and the wine. He is a very entertaining host. Armando makes sure I feel at home and am supplied with plenty of everything as I am dining alone. I have a seat by the fire and glasses of Susumaniello (a red wine from Puglia) to go with five courses of amazing vegetarian food. I tell him when he asks how I am doing "sono molto felice" (I am very happy.) he tells me it makes his heart feel good when I speak his language. Did I mention how much I love this place?
I know it's not Thanksgiving in Italy. But I had an amazing meal. And paused to think how grateful I am for everything I have. and the great opportunity that has been presented to me this year. And I reflect on my responsibility to take the most from every I've been given.
Buonanotte!
Some view pictures from today....and dinner at Il Frantoio:
25 November 2015: NOTHING Like I Expected!
I woke up this morning and scurried down to get breakfast before the 10am deadline. I slept more soundly last night than I have in a long while. As per usual, breakfast was lovely and fresh and inviting. And everyone seems so glad to see you.
After my last sip of tea and bites of toast with fresh marmalade I am off to my first appointment. I am going to open a bank account. But first I have to find the bank. I enter Banco di Napoli, via P. Pignatelli 28, 72017 Ostuni (BR) into my iPhone and I go. In the pouring rain. Only one little wrong turn along the way and I arrive at my destination. (I am even learning to park like an Italian.) My appointment is with Dott. Ferdinando Sallustio, the bank manager. He greets me and offers me a seat. His desk is piled with mountains of papers. He tells me that he has my details but has not been able to open my account yet because of the papers. It will only take a few minutes he says. He jokes about an idea for a horror movie involving the papers. And he tells me that he went to Los Angeles once on a Rotary Club scholarship. He liked it very much. And then voila! My account is open and I have a debit/ATM card. Bank of America put to shame. And when I come back in February he will supply me with a special device to use for internet banking. They're out of stock today. We exchange pleasantries and he is off to deal with his next clients. They're from the UK and, I believe, Ukraine?
So now, what to do? My meeting with the contractor is not until 4pm. And with it being winter season, and nasty weather, I don't have the luxury of plopping myself down at a café and people watching (one of my favorite things to do in Italy). Immediately I remembered from my last house-hunting trip that there was a kind of "superstore" near Fasano. On the way to our new house. That sounds like a plan as I can't resist a store that sells everything. So as the rain continues to come down even harder, I go to look for a dry place to kill some time.
"Conforama" does really sell everything. Furniture, whole kitchens, appliances (yay, they even have clothes dryers....which my friends tell me no one in Italy uses but I will), lighting, electronics, home goods, clothing, etc. And they have a supermercato called "Conad" where I lost myself for 30 minutes imagining what I will cook when I live in Italy. To my delight I found a section of the store selling vegan/vegetarian food!
OK. Still another hour. So I decide to try their little "food court equivalent. I order a trancio (slice) of pizza and a Coca Cola Light. €3.60. Delicious! Some day I really do hope to break the pizza habit so I can call myself a true vegan but today I am weak.
Now...off to Selva di Fasano. I arrive a little early and snap some pictures of the property. Despite the rain, the outside looks so much better since the workers have removed debris and excess brush that had grown around the perimeter while no one was living there. I am amazed at the work they have done before a single payment has been received....dispelling quickly my impression of what I would be up against doing this project in Italy. An impression largely based on Hollywood's interpretation of European workers. Shame on me for rushing to judge.
NB: I have bought this three-bedroom, one-bathroom apartment without ever having set foot inside. I have only seen pictures. And a floor plan. It sits below Craig's villa, which is lovely. And I have been inside the villa twice. However, when we were able to negotiate a price of €60k for the apartment (an amount that wouldn't buy you a closet in Los Angeles) I thought "how bad could it be?". And since I am left with a nice chunk of cash I can renovate completely to my liking, right?
So, promptly at 4pm, there descends on the property a large group of people consisting of: 1) Roberta, the young woman who found us the properties and is acting as my liaison and translator during the renovation; 2) Franco and Francesco, the realtors who represented the property and are supervising the renovation project; 3) Giovanni, the general contractor; 4) the electricians (who also install satellite TV); 5) the plumber; and 6) assorted other folks whom, I assume, are associated with the aforementioned tradesmen. I'm a little overwhelmed, but really, really pleased about the effort that is being made on my behalf on this cold, rainy afternoon.
We begin with the outside and go over all of the work that has to be done while we still have light. The fence and iron gate: replace to match iron fence around villa above. The old cinder block wall: replace with new a stone wall and add embedded ambient lighting. The old garage door: replace. And the list goes on.
Then we step inside. And I am completely taken aback. They have already gone in (note again that I have not yet paid a dime) and demolished and removed the old, ugly bathroom. Pulled up all of the old tile flooring (not an easy task). Demolished a wall that had separated a small kitchen from the rest of the living space. And they haven taken away all of the debris. The effect is great. I am standing there looking at a wide open space. A blank canvas. Am I excited? Yes! Am I absolutely intimidated? Yes! You see, anyone who knows me at all knows that I do not having a creative bone in my body when it comes to interior design. And I fully admit that. I can look at a picture and say yes or no to a design or style. But starting from scratch? Are you kidding me?
Nevertheless we begin. Starting with the electrician, followed by the plumber and the general contractor, we walk every room. Where do I want lights? Where do I want TVs? Where do I need water? Where do I want radiators? Air conditioners? Do I want a laundry room? Do I want a shower and a bathtub or just a shower? Do I want a toilet and a bidet or just a toilet? Do I want to buy kitchen "furniture" or do I want a built-in kitchen made of Pugliese stone? Where do I want the stove? The sink? The oven? The refrigerator? Do I want to keep the existing fireplace or do a re-design? What kind of flooring do I want? What kind of tile in the bathroom? Wall color? Window trim? Doors?
Oh. My. God. I stare at the samples. I am nearly paralyzed. But I just keep answering. It will either be beautiful or a disaster. I have no idea at this point. But here's where I stand as of today:
1) Built-in kitchen made of beautiful Pugliese stone. (NB: This decision very much reinforced when they take me to the showroom to meet the handsome designer who is going to do the kitchen.)
2) Bathroom sink and counter will also be designed and produced in beautiful Pugliese stone by said handsome man. And I will have a big luxury shower. No tub. (We're building a pool in the Spring. We can soak in that.) Just a toilet. I have never used a bidet.
3) Fireplace will also be redesigned and produced in beautiful Pugilese stone again by said handsome man.
4) The floor will be done in wood grain tile to provide some warmth and depth, but be durable enough for a house with many dogs.
5) The walls will be white.
6) The doors will be dark brown.
7) The window frames will be done to match the doors.
8) We will close off the door between the garage and kitchen to provide more space for kitchen being designed by none other than the handsome man.
Whew! Enough for today. Roberta and I break away from the men and head to Ceglie Massapica to have a celebratory drink. It was her birthday on the 17th and mine is on the 28th. She turned 31 and I'm turning 51. Could I really be that much older? Ay!
We pop into a little bar order drinks. And as is usual we are treated to a whole host of delicious snacks. Olives, nuts, crackers, bread. And as we are chatting, we are interrupted by the owner of the bar who has apparently detected my American accent. His name is Egi. He is Italian. his wife, Nina, is American. She us from Palm Beach, Florida. Egi is very excited. So he calls his wife and puts me on the phone with her. She has lived in Puglia with her husband for 22 years. She says she loves him and that Puglia is a lovely place to live. But she misses Florida and her kids. She wants us to get together for a pizza when I move in March. So we exchange information. Already I am making new friends.
We say our good byes and I head back to my cozy room at Masseria Il Frantoio. It's been a really long day. And there is a LOT of work to be done.
Here are some "before" pictures....
After my last sip of tea and bites of toast with fresh marmalade I am off to my first appointment. I am going to open a bank account. But first I have to find the bank. I enter Banco di Napoli, via P. Pignatelli 28, 72017 Ostuni (BR) into my iPhone and I go. In the pouring rain. Only one little wrong turn along the way and I arrive at my destination. (I am even learning to park like an Italian.) My appointment is with Dott. Ferdinando Sallustio, the bank manager. He greets me and offers me a seat. His desk is piled with mountains of papers. He tells me that he has my details but has not been able to open my account yet because of the papers. It will only take a few minutes he says. He jokes about an idea for a horror movie involving the papers. And he tells me that he went to Los Angeles once on a Rotary Club scholarship. He liked it very much. And then voila! My account is open and I have a debit/ATM card. Bank of America put to shame. And when I come back in February he will supply me with a special device to use for internet banking. They're out of stock today. We exchange pleasantries and he is off to deal with his next clients. They're from the UK and, I believe, Ukraine?
So now, what to do? My meeting with the contractor is not until 4pm. And with it being winter season, and nasty weather, I don't have the luxury of plopping myself down at a café and people watching (one of my favorite things to do in Italy). Immediately I remembered from my last house-hunting trip that there was a kind of "superstore" near Fasano. On the way to our new house. That sounds like a plan as I can't resist a store that sells everything. So as the rain continues to come down even harder, I go to look for a dry place to kill some time.
"Conforama" does really sell everything. Furniture, whole kitchens, appliances (yay, they even have clothes dryers....which my friends tell me no one in Italy uses but I will), lighting, electronics, home goods, clothing, etc. And they have a supermercato called "Conad" where I lost myself for 30 minutes imagining what I will cook when I live in Italy. To my delight I found a section of the store selling vegan/vegetarian food!
OK. Still another hour. So I decide to try their little "food court equivalent. I order a trancio (slice) of pizza and a Coca Cola Light. €3.60. Delicious! Some day I really do hope to break the pizza habit so I can call myself a true vegan but today I am weak.
Now...off to Selva di Fasano. I arrive a little early and snap some pictures of the property. Despite the rain, the outside looks so much better since the workers have removed debris and excess brush that had grown around the perimeter while no one was living there. I am amazed at the work they have done before a single payment has been received....dispelling quickly my impression of what I would be up against doing this project in Italy. An impression largely based on Hollywood's interpretation of European workers. Shame on me for rushing to judge.
NB: I have bought this three-bedroom, one-bathroom apartment without ever having set foot inside. I have only seen pictures. And a floor plan. It sits below Craig's villa, which is lovely. And I have been inside the villa twice. However, when we were able to negotiate a price of €60k for the apartment (an amount that wouldn't buy you a closet in Los Angeles) I thought "how bad could it be?". And since I am left with a nice chunk of cash I can renovate completely to my liking, right?
So, promptly at 4pm, there descends on the property a large group of people consisting of: 1) Roberta, the young woman who found us the properties and is acting as my liaison and translator during the renovation; 2) Franco and Francesco, the realtors who represented the property and are supervising the renovation project; 3) Giovanni, the general contractor; 4) the electricians (who also install satellite TV); 5) the plumber; and 6) assorted other folks whom, I assume, are associated with the aforementioned tradesmen. I'm a little overwhelmed, but really, really pleased about the effort that is being made on my behalf on this cold, rainy afternoon.
We begin with the outside and go over all of the work that has to be done while we still have light. The fence and iron gate: replace to match iron fence around villa above. The old cinder block wall: replace with new a stone wall and add embedded ambient lighting. The old garage door: replace. And the list goes on.
Then we step inside. And I am completely taken aback. They have already gone in (note again that I have not yet paid a dime) and demolished and removed the old, ugly bathroom. Pulled up all of the old tile flooring (not an easy task). Demolished a wall that had separated a small kitchen from the rest of the living space. And they haven taken away all of the debris. The effect is great. I am standing there looking at a wide open space. A blank canvas. Am I excited? Yes! Am I absolutely intimidated? Yes! You see, anyone who knows me at all knows that I do not having a creative bone in my body when it comes to interior design. And I fully admit that. I can look at a picture and say yes or no to a design or style. But starting from scratch? Are you kidding me?
Nevertheless we begin. Starting with the electrician, followed by the plumber and the general contractor, we walk every room. Where do I want lights? Where do I want TVs? Where do I need water? Where do I want radiators? Air conditioners? Do I want a laundry room? Do I want a shower and a bathtub or just a shower? Do I want a toilet and a bidet or just a toilet? Do I want to buy kitchen "furniture" or do I want a built-in kitchen made of Pugliese stone? Where do I want the stove? The sink? The oven? The refrigerator? Do I want to keep the existing fireplace or do a re-design? What kind of flooring do I want? What kind of tile in the bathroom? Wall color? Window trim? Doors?
Oh. My. God. I stare at the samples. I am nearly paralyzed. But I just keep answering. It will either be beautiful or a disaster. I have no idea at this point. But here's where I stand as of today:
1) Built-in kitchen made of beautiful Pugliese stone. (NB: This decision very much reinforced when they take me to the showroom to meet the handsome designer who is going to do the kitchen.)
2) Bathroom sink and counter will also be designed and produced in beautiful Pugliese stone by said handsome man. And I will have a big luxury shower. No tub. (We're building a pool in the Spring. We can soak in that.) Just a toilet. I have never used a bidet.
3) Fireplace will also be redesigned and produced in beautiful Pugilese stone again by said handsome man.
4) The floor will be done in wood grain tile to provide some warmth and depth, but be durable enough for a house with many dogs.
5) The walls will be white.
6) The doors will be dark brown.
7) The window frames will be done to match the doors.
8) We will close off the door between the garage and kitchen to provide more space for kitchen being designed by none other than the handsome man.
Whew! Enough for today. Roberta and I break away from the men and head to Ceglie Massapica to have a celebratory drink. It was her birthday on the 17th and mine is on the 28th. She turned 31 and I'm turning 51. Could I really be that much older? Ay!
We pop into a little bar order drinks. And as is usual we are treated to a whole host of delicious snacks. Olives, nuts, crackers, bread. And as we are chatting, we are interrupted by the owner of the bar who has apparently detected my American accent. His name is Egi. He is Italian. his wife, Nina, is American. She us from Palm Beach, Florida. Egi is very excited. So he calls his wife and puts me on the phone with her. She has lived in Puglia with her husband for 22 years. She says she loves him and that Puglia is a lovely place to live. But she misses Florida and her kids. She wants us to get together for a pizza when I move in March. So we exchange information. Already I am making new friends.
We say our good byes and I head back to my cozy room at Masseria Il Frantoio. It's been a really long day. And there is a LOT of work to be done.
Here are some "before" pictures....
24 November 2015: Visitng My New Italian Home!
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| Masseria Il Frantoio |
I'm sitting on board my Alitalia flight from London to Rome. I'm exhausted because I didn't sleep at all last night for fear of missing my early morning flight. And, unlike most of my fellow passengers, I can't sleep now either. Fortunately for me, the breathtaking snow-capped mountains on display out the right side of the plane provide a pleasant distraction.
This is the second of three legs of my journey from Los Angeles to Puglia. My 18th visit to Italy. My first visit to Italy as a homeowner.
Yep. I did it. I can't believe I actually did it! I bought a house in Italy. I've cemented my decades-long, irrational love affair with this country and I 'm doing what I promised myself I would do when I turned 50 (I have four days left before my 51st birthday). I sold my condo in Los Angeles. I quit my job. And I am moving to Italy. I bought a property that needs complete renovation. And I am working with a contractor who speaks VERY little English. And today it feels really real.
Now just to clarify, I'm not doing this alone. My ex-husband Craig, from whom I have been divorced for six and a half years, also sold his house, quit his job and bought a property in Italy.....a villa that happens to sit right on top of my property. (His propery is already renovated.) He's moving to Italy too. He turns 50 in four months.
Also moving to Italy are our four dogs, Natalia, Elisabetta, Mario and Luigi. And our fish, Fred. We're chartering a private jet to get us all there. Kardashians eat your hearts out.
Unconventional? Most definitely. Do I get crazy looks when I tell people what we're doing? Yes. But no matter. This journey is about letting go. Letting go of pre-conceived notions of how life should look. About not always being in control. And about fulfilling a dream....for better or worse.
So here goes....
I arrive to Bari Airport, which is small, but has everything you need....including short immigration lines and on-site rental car pick up (a big plus on a chilly, damp day). I check in with a lovely young woman at the Avis counter. We chat. She seems very happy that Americans are buying property in Puglia. And is very enamored of Los Angeles. And she convinces me to buy the extra coverage for my car. After all, it's Italy. And it's raining. So I hop in my well- (and probably over-) insured, zippy little Citroen and head to Masseria Il Frantoio, about an hour South near the town of Ostuni.
Masseria Il Frantoio, one of the many old farmhouses in Puglia that has been converted for guest accommodation, has to be the most charming, welcoming property in which I've stayed. As a returning customer I was treated to 10% off my room rate (nice loyalty programme) and they remembered that I am a vegetarian (even more loyalty points). They had asked ahead of time whether I'd be joining for dinner to which I replied an enthusiastic yes! You have a choice of four, six, or eight courses. No menu. You get whatever they're preparing that evening....along with wine and a detailed description of what you're eating, much of which comes from their organic farm. I ate here four nights during my last trip and never was a meal repeated. Nor was a meal anything short of amazing. Once again, tonight, they did not disappoint. I would be lying if I said that Masseria Il Frantoio was not part of the reason we bought property in this part of Puglia.
While I was enjoying dinner I had the pleasure of meeting a young couple from Boston who had driven up from Lecce for dinner. It was fun to share stories and learn about their experiences as they explored Rome and Puglia. He was driving for the first time in Italy and joked that the pomegranate liqueur that came with dessert might actually be a good thing to bolster his nerve. I hoped he was right.
Pleasantly full and sufficiently tired, I climb up to my room and get ready for the adventure ahead. And my first official visit as the owner of my new home.
Italian Dogs....
During the house hunting/buying process my enthusiasm has grown and diminished as we have had alternating pleasant and not so pleasant surprises, unforeseen obstacles, etc. But I have been determined not to give up. Because, in addition to my conviction that I would not walk away from this project at the first sign of a challenge, there was always a much greater motivation. For me, that has been animals.
Anyone who knows me, even for a brief period of time, will know that animal welfare is a cause near and dear to my heart. I've been a vegetarian for over 15 years and am an aspiring vegan. So when the opportunity to convert my passion to action and to combine my love of Europe and animals presented itself, I jumped at the chance. Here's how it started...
Back in 2009 I got connected through Facebook to a lady named Mia Mattsson-Mercer, who founded and leads a non-profit called Animals Without Limits (AWL) (www.animalswithoutlimits.com) Mia was living, at the time, with her husband and two children in Lago Patria, near Naples in Campania. Despite all the warnings about being careful regarding crazy people you meet on the internet, I felt like I needed to meet Mia. So I wrote and asked her if I could come to Lago Patria during my trip to Italy that Christmas. When she didn't hesitate and gave me an enthusiastic "yes", I knew this would be the start of something good.
One rainy day in December I got my stuff together and took the train from Rome to Naples....and then a little local train to Lago Patria. Coming from Los Angeles, with my high heeled boots and way overpacked bags (complete dog treats and goodies for the kids), I was completely unprepared for changing trains in cobblestoned streets. But I made it. I stepped off the train and Mia, Olivia and Max were waiting there for me in their trusty SUV, which served many purposes including "missions" to shelters around the region. I fell in love right then with this family (at the time it was Mom, Dad, two kids and I believe 21 dogs?). And I was hooked on the idea of helping AWL!
During the time I spent in Lago Patria that year I witnesses for the first time the condition of street dogs in Southern Italy and, perhaps worse, the conditions in the shelters there. Some times as many as 1000 dogs are housed in horrible conditions. Many are old and sick with no prospects of getting out. Mia is one of the bravest ladies I know as she doesn't turn away from this suffering. She jumps in and does what she can to make a difference. She started an Italian AWL hospice, Casa dell'Amore, that, for a number of years, served as a place where the oldies could come out of the shelters or off the streets and live out their retirements with warm beds, green grass and a lot of love. As Mia always says "That's Amore!".
Since that time, I have stayed close to Mia and AWL as a supporter and advocate. And now that I have left my full-time job, I want to dedicate time to helping bring the resources needed to make AWL's visions a reality. Mia has thrown out the idea of building a sanctuary/hospice/clinic in Southern Tuscany. I say "let's make it happen". Having that mission on the horizon keeps me going. It's something bigger and more important than just me.
So....here's to Italian dogs. To AWL. And to living the dream in more ways than one!
Anyone who knows me, even for a brief period of time, will know that animal welfare is a cause near and dear to my heart. I've been a vegetarian for over 15 years and am an aspiring vegan. So when the opportunity to convert my passion to action and to combine my love of Europe and animals presented itself, I jumped at the chance. Here's how it started...
Back in 2009 I got connected through Facebook to a lady named Mia Mattsson-Mercer, who founded and leads a non-profit called Animals Without Limits (AWL) (www.animalswithoutlimits.com) Mia was living, at the time, with her husband and two children in Lago Patria, near Naples in Campania. Despite all the warnings about being careful regarding crazy people you meet on the internet, I felt like I needed to meet Mia. So I wrote and asked her if I could come to Lago Patria during my trip to Italy that Christmas. When she didn't hesitate and gave me an enthusiastic "yes", I knew this would be the start of something good.
One rainy day in December I got my stuff together and took the train from Rome to Naples....and then a little local train to Lago Patria. Coming from Los Angeles, with my high heeled boots and way overpacked bags (complete dog treats and goodies for the kids), I was completely unprepared for changing trains in cobblestoned streets. But I made it. I stepped off the train and Mia, Olivia and Max were waiting there for me in their trusty SUV, which served many purposes including "missions" to shelters around the region. I fell in love right then with this family (at the time it was Mom, Dad, two kids and I believe 21 dogs?). And I was hooked on the idea of helping AWL!
During the time I spent in Lago Patria that year I witnesses for the first time the condition of street dogs in Southern Italy and, perhaps worse, the conditions in the shelters there. Some times as many as 1000 dogs are housed in horrible conditions. Many are old and sick with no prospects of getting out. Mia is one of the bravest ladies I know as she doesn't turn away from this suffering. She jumps in and does what she can to make a difference. She started an Italian AWL hospice, Casa dell'Amore, that, for a number of years, served as a place where the oldies could come out of the shelters or off the streets and live out their retirements with warm beds, green grass and a lot of love. As Mia always says "That's Amore!".
Since that time, I have stayed close to Mia and AWL as a supporter and advocate. And now that I have left my full-time job, I want to dedicate time to helping bring the resources needed to make AWL's visions a reality. Mia has thrown out the idea of building a sanctuary/hospice/clinic in Southern Tuscany. I say "let's make it happen". Having that mission on the horizon keeps me going. It's something bigger and more important than just me.
So....here's to Italian dogs. To AWL. And to living the dream in more ways than one!
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