Il Veterinario And The Referendum

Un Viaggio Al Veterinario

One of the biggest concerns I had about moving to a new country, particularly one where my language skills are basic at best, was my ability to access healthcare.  Not only for myself, but for the animals.  After years of having consistently good care from both our people doctors and our veterinarians at Malibu Coast Animal Hospital, our bar was set pretty high. And I wasn’t really sure what to expect. So…after six weeks of living in Italy:

I1)  have yet to see a doctor.  And I’m running out of medicine.  I don’t have resident status yet so I can’t access the public health system.  Fortunately, private healthcare here costs a fraction of what it does in the US and in the short term I do, thankfully, have that option. Must do something about this soon. (NB: In a recent Bloomberg study, Italy ranked second healthiest country in the world. I think it has as much to do with the lifestyle as it does the healthcare. I’m actually counting on olive oil and wine more than conventional medicine.)

2) The dogs, of course, officially have their new veterinarian.  He is in Martina Franca and his name is Dott. Pietro Palmisano (seems that Palmisano is a very popular name in Puglia). We were introduced by our new friend Graham, who agreed to accompany us to our first visit. We loaded all four dogs into crates and into the car and ventured out for their meet and greet. And then a second visit to get their leishmaniasis tests (very serious and prevalent disease in Southern Italy).  Here’s how it went:

Natalia:  DISASTER. She needed a rabies vaccine on her first visit as well as her blood test on the second visit.  If there is a stronger 20-lb dog in the world, I would be surprised. She is not a good ambassador for American dogs. However, with the help of some strong arms and a muzzle we got her through it. Twice. Good thing she’s so pretty. J

Elisabetta (Lizzie):  SUPERSTAR!  As usual our little fuzzy wuzzy one-eyed wonder dog was a trooper. 

Mario:  GETS A PASSING GRADE. He grizzled and grumbled the whole time he had the tourniquet on his arm.  But no bites. Whew!

Luigi:  DRAMA QUEEN.  I have often said that Luigi is the reincarnation of our first dog, Creature…or at least he channels his sprit occasionally.  This is exactly how Creature would have handled himself (except when he was with Dr. Lisa, who had a special relationship with him.) Despite the yelps and squirms, he survived his test.

Fortunately, and not surprisingly since leishmaniasis not an issue in CA, their tests all came back negative, and we will start them on treatments to prevent the diseases that are a new threat to us living here in Puglia. And each of the dogs now his/her own “Libretto Sanitario”. How fancy is that?

I should mention here that the cost of the four leishmaniasis tests was EUR 120. We, of course, left the house with no cash. Dott. Palimisano’s response when we offered to run to a Bancomat?  “Non ti preoccupi”. Don’t worry.  You can pay me whenever. (I went back the next day as I don’t do well leaving things hanging.) But the gesture?  Much appreciated.

P.S. It makes me smile every time someone here says to me “calma”, “tranquilla”, “non ti preoccupi”.  Anyone who knows me will recognize that a good dose of calm/tranquil is what I needed and probably a big part of why I chose to come to Southern Italy.  But it is taking a while to sink in.

The Drilling Referendum

I am sure for many people reading this blog yesterday’s drilling referendum in Italy won’t have even hit your radar.  But as a resident of Italy and a rabid conservationist, I found it to be a pretty big deal. 

Despite significant protestations from Italian Prime Minister Matteo Renzi, the Italian people were presented with a referendum that focused on whether Italy should stop renewing offshore drilling licenses within 12 miles (20 km) of the coast. New drilling concessions are no longer being handed out, but the government says old agreements should be kept in play. In order for the ballot to be valid, over 50 percent of the voting population had to participate.  The government leaders encouraged people to stay home.  Sadly, a quorum was not reached, with only 30 percent turnout, and the measure defeated.

I was saddened to hear this, not just because I believe in what the referendum stood for, but because so many of the people here in Puglia with whom I have interacted were passionately in favor.  I am disappointed on behalf of my new neighbors. (Our waiter in a little restaurant in Locorotondo yesterday told us how important for the whole world this referendum would be.)

One thing that I find incredibly attractive about Puglia is the pride of the people.  And their approach to protecting the land and the culture.  I hope next time there is a vote they (we) win!

 

 

 

Thoughtful Consumption....Gigabytes and Kilowatts (and a Few Pretty Pictures!)

I am sure that we have provided our new friends in Italy plenty of stories to tell their friends.  You know, the stories about the clueless Americans. And our approach to consumption.

Remember when I posted about our first week here in Puglia?  Remember how we lost power? And how we made repeated panicked calls to our friend Franco?  I may have mentioned that it turned out we had exceeded the 3 kilowatts in our contract (this was separate from the storm outage).  You see, when you purchase electricity on a monthly basis here, you purchase a fixed amount. Your usage is not unlimited.  Did we know this?  No.  We just proceeded as we always had, assuming that electricity would just keep on coming (as it always had, albeit at a cost). Now we know better.  And we have a 6kw contract. 

The same is true for internet/wifi connection.  When we signed up for TooWay (Open Sky) satellite internet, we figured that we had contracted for a sufficient number of Gigabytes to handle our needs (I have never had to guess how many Gigabytes I use, have you?).  Ha!  10 days into our monthly contract our internet connection ground to a halt.  We had consumed 103% of our contracted amount. Who knew that a few Netflix movies streaming to your computer and a few Skype conference calls would suck up that much data?!?!? More SOS calls to Franco and Pasquale, poor guys. We have now subscribed to the most generous non-business package they offer.  100 Gigabytes per month.

And mobile phones?  This one is interesting and very telling. Craig and I each signed up for contracts with Wind (Italian mobile provider).  Our contracts give us each the following:  500 minutes, 500 texts, 1 Gigabyte of data usage and 80 minutes of calling back to the US.  So….5 days before the end of our monthly renewal we have each used up our data.  And have not even dented our voice and SMS allowances. You know what that says to me?  Tracey Kleber, get your head out of your email and Facebook.  Maybe pick up the phone and call people when you need to speak with them. What a novel idea.

I mention all of this as I thought, until I moved here, I was a pretty conscious consumer. But I guess what I defined as conscious consumption just meant, very simply, that I was aware of what I consumed.  I didn't really put limits on myself.  Having to look more carefully at the resources available to me, however, has caused me to take pause and think about how much of anything is really essential.  Let’s see how we do in the next 30 days.   I have a sneaking suspicion we will be OK.  Perhaps even happier.  NB: Doesn't mean I won't sneak in a Netflix movie or two. Oh....and please note that I have not curtailed wine consumption....or pasta....or bread....or olives.  They are in ample supply here.  Along with really kind people and sunshine.

Now for the pretty pictures....just because.

There are a few houses next to ours that have not had any visitors since we arrived.  I am not sure what their status is for Spring/Summer, but I can say for sure that mother nature has done her job in getting the properties ready.  These purple flowers are amongst my very favorite.  And I get to enjoy them free!

 

And speaking of flowers...my garden is doing really well.  I can take no credit at all.  The guys who planted them and the Puglia weather did it without any input from me. Note that Lizzie has decided she belongs in the garden as well. She's the prettiest flower of all!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Venti Forti and Other Miscellaneous Thoughts

If I hadn’t known what “venti forti” meant before I moved to Puglia, I would surely have learned it in the first few weeks.  “Venti forti“ means “strong winds”.  And we’ve had more than our fair share since arriving to the villa on the hill.  Puglia is subject to both the mistral and scirocco winds, hitting the peninsula from both directions.  And they definitely impact how you spend your days, which coast you visit at any given time, etc.  (A good thing for windsurfers and kite surfers!)

I was thinking over the past few days that dealing with a strong wind is a lot like facing a new challenge in life…like moving to a new country or making any other major change.  You can decide to continually head into the bluster and fight it, or you can turn so that the wind is at your back…letting it carry you forward. I’ve decided that I am going to, for as long as I live here, view the wind as being at my back….

Just for fun here are a few of the latest developments in life during my first month in Puglia.

My Closet Dilemma: Problem Solved (Mostly)

I bought my flat knowing full well that I wouldn’t have any closets.  So turning the third bedroom into a laundry/dressing room was, I thought, a very strategic plan. But, as I have mentioned previously, despite my best attempts at spatial planning I was still having challenges.  Four armoires later, I managed to squeeze all of my hanging clothes into place.  But I still had shoes, shoes, shoes and bags, bags, bags, everywhere.

With the arrival last weekend of my adorable Fiat 500L, however, I was able to make my first trip to IKEA in Bari and get some storage solutions.  (Note:  That was the first of what I anticipate will be many trips to IKEA as what is perhaps my favorite food store ever, EATALY, is close by. I am like a kid in a candy store.) After struggling to wrangle my new shoe racks away from a man who was trying to “help” me and get them into my car, I raced home and begged my ex-husband to help me with the assembly. 30 minutes later….Voila!  I have my shoes organized.  Mostly.  I am happy.  And I managed to get most of my bags off the floor.  And my folding clothes are folded on shelves and in dresser drawers.  Whew!  I see the light.

** I should also note that there are donation bins for clothing, shoes, bags, etc. in multiple locations in every town in this area.  About time to do another re-think on my possessions.**




Bags

Shoes

Eataly in Bari...three kinds of quinoa, lentils and all kinds of good veggie stuff

Beans, olives and more olives!

Lots of wine

 

Washing/Drying/Dishwashing…Changing Perspectives on Scale

When I embarked on this renovation project, I decided that my must-haves would include a washer, a dryer and a dishwasher.  And I got them. All shiny and new.  And small.  Actually they're probably not that small. I realize it's all relative.  They are only small when viewed through my suburban America lens.  (I'm sure if I had ever lived in New York City, the size of European appliances would be normal for me.)

So I am adapting. I wash two or three pairs of jeans and some t-shirts. Not five or six pairs. I wash my California king fleece bed sheets in two loads. I patiently await the much longer wash and dry cycles.  And you know what?  My appliances do just fine.  They are energy-efficient. My clothes are clean.  And dry. I hand wash more dishes. (Some of my bigger dinner plates do not fit in the new dishwasher.) I am finding it therapeutic. And I will invest in more hand lotions.  

 

Water and Gas

When we purchased this villa neither Craig nor I thought to ask where our water and gas came from.  It’s hard to believe this looking back, because utilities were an issue with a lot of properties as we did our search around Italy. 

So what have we learned?

We get our water delivered.  In a big truck.  A big truck that arrives and fills our water tank (a real water tank, not to be confused with pools that are registered as “water tanks”).  Every three weeks or so we have to call the water supplier and have him visit. I am waiting for the day when we forget and our water tank runs dry. 

Our gas?  Also delivered.  In another big truck.  Again, we need to order the gas.  Or we have no heat.  Or hot water.  Our fancy new “caldaie” will not work without gas.

 

Car Insurance and GPS

My good friend, who is from Rome, learned of my dilemma trying to find reasonably-priced car insurance as a new car owner in Italy.  Not easy. It turns out his brother has a very good friend who works for Allianz in Rome.  A few phone calls later....I am getting car insurance at the "friends and family" rate with a free GPS unit installed. I am so incredibly grateful.

So last Friday I find myself at Elettrauto Muolo in Fasano getting my new GPS unit installed. It will provide me with emergency assistance and traceability of my car should it go "missing".  The garage is small.  And yet these guys manage to work on three cars at a time.  Their spatial relations abilities are much better than my own.  During the hour while they do the installation I wander around the neighborhood amazed by the little pieces of creativity I see all around me...like the use of broken vases and stone.  Puglia has so many layers and I love uncovering them.

 

 

 

New Discoveries

During my house hunting visits to Puglia, I spent a fair amount of time driving around this area, hoping to get a feel for what life would be like here. I visited Ostuni, Alberobello, Cisternino, Savelletri, Lecce, etc. Two of the towns I missed, however, were Martina Franca and Locorotondo.  Here are some pics of these two lovely towns I have discovered since arriving.

Approaching Locorotondo

View from the town

 

Drinks

 

 

Martina Franca

Martina Franca

 

 

Gelato in Martina Franca (I didn't stop, but it was tempting.)

 

Call me silly, but I am very excited about finding a kebab shop in Martina Franca that does falafel in a pita!

 

There is still much of Puglia to explore.  And I am thrilled because with every new discovery I get more excited about my new home.  And about sharing it with everyone.  Ciao for now!