Che Sorpresa! (What a Surprise!)

 

I am an Italophile.  Guilty as charged. And while I like to think I am not naïve in considering the extent of any country's merits, I will admit that I moved to Italy with pretty high (perhaps somewhat unrealistic) expectations.  That makes it all the more significant when I say that I have been consistently and pleasantly surprised as I explore and experience many aspects of life in Puglia. (I will suspend, for now, thoughts of my battle with the electric company and my drawn out process for getting resident status so I can just brag about this beautiful place.) Here are a few examples of what I mean.

Food



Simply Stunning Japanese Meal at Puro

Orecchiette with Cime di Rape and Pomodori in Ostuni

Anyone who has read my previous blog posts or my Facebook page…or anyone who has traveled in Italy for that matter…will undoubtedly not be surprised when I say that the food in Puglia is nothing short of spectacular. But it’s not just the food in restaurants that has me taken aback (although I can say I haven’t had one bad meal). And it’s well beyond the expected fare of pasta and pizza. It’s all of the food. It’s the prepared food at the grocery store (BEST frozen soups you can imagine). It’s the plethora of delicious vegetarian and vegan food options. It’s the market. It’s the snacks. It’s the bread. It’s the best roasted potatoes I have ever tasted. It’s the best Japanese food I have had in my life….in a town called Polignano a Mare. Go figure. 

Having said all of this, however, I have identified one potential downside to living in a place you used to travel for foodie holidays.  And that's eating like you are on holiday.  All the time. In my case I can’t help myself as it provides so much pleasure.  I have no willpower. I’m not sure if the food is so good  because of the fabulous ingredients.  Or if it’s the care and skill with which people approach the preparation.  Or a combination of the above (likely).  In any case, my already high expectations have been exceeded.  By a mile. 

Note: I have just found a gym near my home and will be joining as soon as I get back from my upcoming trip to the US/Sweden.


Vegan Carpaccio from Soleterra (I marinate with lemon juice and garlic)



Best.  Roasted. Potatoes.  Ever. Seriously.

Ratatouille made with Locorotondo Market Finds

A Sampling of Vegan Food Options from Conad

Frozen Soups and Veggies

Wine

Again, it would not be surprising for someone who moved to Italy to write home and say that he/she had great wine.  And it would be even more surprising to hear me, Tracey Kleber, say that I didn't like the wine here. But my extra delight comes from the opportunities for sampling good wine from Puglia. And, to top it all off, it is incredibly inexpensive.  I can buy good, drinkable wine for €3 at the store.  We have good bottles of wine for €15 in restaurants. (Caveat:  I’m not really a wine snob….as good wine for me is defined as wine that I like.) Puglia used to be known as a region that grew grapes to be blended into wines from other regions.  However it has grown into a well-renowned wine producing region. And we are enjoying the trend very much.

On my list to explore are the many vineyards in the area.  The last weekend in May when there is an event called “Cantine Aperte” (open cantinas). I just need a partner in crime.  And I need to find a good driver. Watch this space...

Rosé on a warm afternoon has become a favorite.

Medicine

I wrote in a prior post that I still hadn’t found a doctor for myself (while making it a priority to find a veterinarian for the dogs).  And without having resident status I am not yet in a position to attach myself to a local GP.  Much to my surprise, however, I learned (via our friend Graham) that there is a service in Italy providing medical care after hours and to people who are not, for one reason or another, entitled to the national health service.  Last Sunday morning (yep, SUNDAY!) I drove to Martina Franca and met Graham who kindly accompanied me to the facility for a visit with the on-call doctor.  We explained my situation.  Told him the medicine I needed.  He wrote me a prescription.  I walked out.  He didn’t charge me.  Filling my prescription?  €3!!  Seriously.  €3!!  And the doctor said if I run out before I secure my residency I could come back and he’ll give me another prescription.  (This medicine would cost me over $600 a month without insurance in the US.) 

While there might not be any facility as state-of-the-art as the Ronald Reagan UCLA Medical Center near here,  the fact that I got my medicine, no questions asked, goes a long way to compensate.  Although I am very sure I will encounter bumps and frustrations along the way with Italian healthcare, there is something that is, at its core, sane and civilized about this system.

Additional side note:  I developed a little skin growth on my clavicle soon after I arrived here that, given my extensive history of skin cancer, had me a little concerned.  By lucky coincidence I happened to park across the street from a dermatologist’s office in Locorotondo the other day.  So I decided to look him up online. His name is Dott. Giovanni Felice (love his name).  I emailed him.  He agreed to see me that evening as a private patient.  My office visit plus removal of three bumps with local anesthesia was €130.  Pleasant surprise.